- Helpful Tools:
- X-ACTO knives with a variety of different blades
Variable speed motor tool such as a Dremel with an assortment
of grinding and cutting bits
Sand paper or sanding films of different grits, coarse to
fine.
Foam backed sanding sticks (I love these things). A great
place to find these are in the nail care section in the beauty
supply area at the local discount drug store. I like the ones
that are about 3/4" x 7" with four different grits on them.
They are cheap and indispensible!
- Glues
- Regular plastic model glue will not work on resin kits.
They work by acting as a solvent that melts the plastic together.
Resin doesn't melt. You must use a cyanoacrylate adhesive
(super-glue). The thick types such as Zap-A-Gap work well.
It also helps to use a kicker to speed the curing of the glue.
I usually apply the kicker with a toothpick or bamboo skewer
rather than spraying. Five-minute epoxy also works when you
need added strength or a longer work time.
- Puttys and seam filling
- Almost any putty that you normally use on plastic kits
will work on resin. Automotive Glazing and Spotting Putty
is good for minor imperfections such as pinholes. This putty
drys quickly, is very easy to sand and a tube will last forever.
Epoxy putty is great for larger gaps. It is a two part system
that, when kneeded together, can be worked like clay. You
generally have a couple of hours to work it before it sets
up. The biggest advantage this has over other fillers is that
it can be worked and smoothed with tools and brushes dipped
in water to produce a finish that will require very little
sanding. An excellent one is made by MagicSculp.
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